Moulting refers to the shedding of feathers. It is the natural process of losing and re-growing feathers. Most all birds do it including chickens. Moulting is generally, not a pretty sight! In fact, it usually is hard to watch a chicken undergo a rough moult. Every chicken has about 8,500 feathers so losing them all is quite the ordeal! Chickens have two kinds of moults: the juvenile moult and the annual moult. Let’s take a look at when moulting happens, how to help chickens through it, and how to manage the moult itself.
When Moulting Occurs
The first moult, also known as the juvenile moult, happens in the 4-12 week period of a chicken’s life. They are constantly losing and growing feathers during this time. The annual moulting happens once a year, normally in autumn/fall and the chicken will experience this hard moult when it's around 16-18 months old. In fall the daylight hours get shorter, which signals to the chickens that it's time to re-grow feathers for the upcoming winter months. However, moulting can be caused any time of the year by lack of nutrition, lack of water, and bullying/stress. I had a hen who went without water for about 8 hours and she moulted for a week!
Also, it is possible that if you get poor quality stock chickens, like I did, for them to moult three or more times each year. Chickens generally don’t have the annual moult in their first year of life. But this is not always true. My chickens moulted in their first year. The annual moult lasts 5-7 weeks on average. However, they can be as short as two weeks or as long as twelve weeks! Older chickens always take longer than the average yearling.
Why Moulting Occurs
Many people don’t understand the whole point of the moult. But, there is purpose and beauty behind it. Since chickens are busy creatures, they are constantly losing and breaking feathers. By the end of the year, their feathers are not appropriate for the duty of keeping the chickens warm in winter. The moult causes the chickens to lose these old feathers and grow shiny, strong, and warm new ones. By the end of the moult, your chickens will look amazing! Like they are brand new! Of course, the actual moulting process is not fun to watch or experience. BUT, it is not pointless!
How Moulting Occurs
In most articles and books you will read, it says that chickens start moulting at the head and neck and then work their way downward. This is not true! I, along with other chicken keepers, have experienced hens who begin moulting at the tail and move up from there. Or start moulting their saddle feathers first. All chickens moult differently.
Signs of the Moult
You may wonder if you’ll be able to notice your chickens moulting. The answer is yes….and no! It really varies from chicken to chicken. Some moult so slowly you will hardly notice. Others throw all their feathers off at once and are half-naked for weeks. Rarely will you get a completely bald chicken. You also will notice great amounts of feathers laying around the coop and run. Other signs of moulting include:
- Decreased Laying
- Hungrier Chickens
- Feather-Eating Chickens
- An Aggressive and Suddenly Shy Flock
How to Help
As you have probably gathered from the already stated information, moulting is stressful and hard on a chicken’s body. While some people may run screaming for the hills, other people immediately want to know how they can help. There are many ways in which to help the moulting flock. First of all, feathers take up 85% protein, and with all the feathers being lost; there is a great need for extra protein. Besides the normal chicken feed, you should provide foods with extra protein such as oatmeal, quinoa, scrambled or hard-boiled eggs, meat scraps, corn, peas, dry dog or cat food, tuna fish, black oil sunflower seeds, and soybean meal. Be sure that you feed these all in moderation and do not overdo them! This will cause diarrhoea and other problems.
If your moulting chickens do not get enough protein, they will start pecking aggressively at each other and eat any feathers they can find. There are some feeds out there that are specially made for moulting chickens and can be fed in higher quantities. These include Feather Fixers and Mite Fixers. Apple cider vinegar also helps a lot during the moult. It is full of vitamins and minerals.
Some people make special foods for their flock during the moult such as moult muffins. They also make mashes using oatmeal, layer feed, and eggs. These are all wonderful for your flock. It will not only help their moult but it will also take their mind off it and make them happy.
Other ways to help moulting chickens include: not handling them as much as possible to prevent injury, pain, and stress, making sure they have plenty of roaming room and access to shelter, making sure they have lots of water, and trying to reduce as much stress as possible.
Sometimes you may come across an injured, moulting bird. Newly emerging feathers have vein-filled shafts. If a shaft is injured or cut, it will bleed a lot, similar to cutting the quick in a dog’s claw. This causes pain and stress on the bird so be sure and remove her from the rest of the flock. Clean her wound once it stops bleeding and remove it using tweezers. Keep her isolated until she is completely healed.
Facts About the Moult
- During the moult, hens normally quit laying. Who could blame them? Moulting takes lots of energy and is stressful. Not to mention the protein required to moult. Instead of going to eggs, all the chicken’s body nutrients go to finishing the moult. Roosters often stop fertilising during the moult too. Your flock will not be very productive during the moult.
- Moulting is a great way to find out which of your hens are the best producers. Good layers moult late and fast while poor layers moult early and slow. The primary wing feathers determine whether a hen is an early or late molter. The large, stiff, “flight” feathers can be seen on the outer part of each wing when the wing is spread out. Generally, there are ten primary feathers on each wing that are separated from the smaller secondary feathers by a short axial feather. Late moulting hens lose primary feathers in groups of two or more, whereas early molters lose feathers individually.
- Pure bred chickens usually take longer to moult than hybrids.
- Broody hens moult after every hatch.
- Chickens become shy during the moult because they are stressed and fear the touching of humans which can result in pain.
- Once the moult is finished, your flock should return to their normal behaviours and duties.
- Bullying behaviours increase during the moult.
- Moulting doesn’t always happen in fall. Chickens have been known to moult in spring, summer, and even winter.
- All chickens have a different moulting pattern.
Moulting is stressful, hard, and regular. It can last anywhere from 2-12 weeks. All chickens moult differently. Chickens need extra protein to make it through the moult successfully. Hens usually stop laying eggs during the moult. Make sure you watch for bullying behaviours. By knowing the facts, you will be able to help your chickens through it. Once the moult is finished, the chickens will look shiny and amazing!